Tuesday, September 30, 2014

The Next Steps on my Tailored Coat!

I worked again this morning on my jacket/coat.  The first step was to create the cuffs for the sleeves.  As you can see, you cut the lining 1/8 inch small than the cuff and this is called "favoring".  It makes the cuff pull to the underside and no lining shows from the front.  I love this step!  The cuffs look great.

 I also took a close up of my fabric.  It is called "Boucle" and that is the little black nubs that you see sticking out of the fabric. 
Next, I worked on the sleeves. Kenneth says to add "Wiggin" to the bottom of the sleeve edge to keep it from stretching.  I didn't have this, so I cut some muslin on the length wise grain where there is no stretch and used this.  Wiggin is a very thin cotton.  If you are wondering why I have a safety pin in my fabric, that is to tell me which is the right side.  If I didn't have that, I would never be able to tell.
I have the sleeves and the sleeve lining finished and you can see the cuff has been attached.

I also have the lining front and back attached together and put it on my duct tape dummy.  It is starting to come together now and look like a coat!
Well, that was a good mornings work.  I have some more tacking this evening of the seams and hopefully can work on it a little bit tomorrow!  I hope you are enjoying the follow along!  Thanks!  Cindy

Monday, September 29, 2014

I Am Tailoring A New Winter Coat!!

I signed up for a class by Kenneth King, who is my favorite designer.  I am learning about tailoring a jacket.  I have started and thought maybe you would like to follow along with my journey.  I haven't had much time to sew, so it has already taken me about 4 weeks just to get to the point of sewing.

The pattern being used is Vogue 8841.  Kenneth redesigned the coat and he has shown directions to make the adjustments.  I also had to alter the pattern and I made a few adjustments and sewed out a muslin with my old Disney material.  Now everyone that sees it wants me to finish it and give them the Disney jacket.

I just wanted to make sure that the body fit before I cut out my good fabric.  I ordered a Black and White Boucle Tweed fabric from Mood's in New York.  This always makes me nervous.  I like to see fabric before I purchase it, but I guess this is going to be unavailable to most of us anymore if you want a piece of really good fabric.  Also there are no returns at Moods, so if you don't like it, well, you are just out of luck!  The fabric was created by Designer Anna Sui.  I do have to say, I am so glad I purchased it, because when I opened the box, I just loved it!  The first step I did was I washed all of my different materials and a sample of my designer fabric.  Everything washed up well, so I washed the designer fabric with no shrinkage.  Now when my coat is finished I can hand wash it instead of taking it to the cleaners.  We just lost another cleaners in our area and I really don't think there are any left!  This is my only choice on keeping this jacket clean.
I also changed the jacket to suit myself by adding a full lining to it, Kenneth only had a partial lining.  I would like the jacket to be heavy enough to where in the Winter.  Well I now have everything cut out and I am ready to start.

I created my own lining by purchasing a high grade satin and black flannel to add a little bit of warmth.  I layered the two pieces of material together as you would for a quilt and safety pinned it together.  Then I laid out my lining pattern pieces on top of the satin and flannel material and cut out each pattern piece about 1 inch larger all the way around the pattern.  I drew diagonal lines on the satin material and sewed on the diagonal lines to create my own lining.  This is for one of the pockets.  After I have the diagonal lines sewn, I cut out the actual pattern.

I now have the front lining together and as you can see in the picture all of the curves are sewed with a strip of muslin to keep them from stretching.  Now, according to Kenneth the proper step next is to tack down all of your seams, so everything will lay flat.  I will be working on this tonight as I watch a little tv.   Follow along as I work on this to see my progress. More pictures soon!