Monday, October 27, 2014

More Pictures on my Tailored Coat!

I know its been a couple weeks now since I last posted.  My hubby and I were on vacation for a week and then last week, I ended up working everyday.  That means no sewing!  I had today off, so I was able to get a few more steps finished.  My Aunt Elinor called this morning and asked why I haven't been working on my coat!  She follows my blog and I better show her I have been busy.  Here we go!

Tailoring Canvas had to be sewn on the lapels by hand.  It is never sewn into a seam, (as I learned the hard way) and tore it out because it creates to much bulk and the seams won't lay nice.
More muslin sewn on all the curves of the coat and the shoulder seams.  This will keep it from stretching out of shape.

Here I am starting to attach the collar.  It gets sewn in by hand. Then it is basted in by the machine and then if all is well, it gets sewed with a regular stitch to lock it in place.  All seams are clipped 1/2 inch apart and around the curves it is clipped every 1/4 inch.

The red strings are my tailor tacks.  I love these.  I have never used them before and I have found out it is the best way to mark those special spots that need to come together.  I would of never been able to get this collar on correctly without those tailor tacks.   

 
The collar is starting to come together, many hours of work by now.

Here I have the collar finished and the lapel sewn and you can see the difference that pressing makes.  The collar has been properly pressed and the label has had no pressing in this picture.  I know now why they say that proper pressing can even make the worst sewer's garment look good!

This
looks like a giant pocket sticking out, but this is the beginning of the fly front.  Actually you will see that there will be no buttons showing on this coat, they will be buttoned inside of this fly front.  Actually, it is like a large pocket!

Now here is the inside of the fly front and you can see I have my button holes finished.  I practiced them first and they sewed out beautifully.  Then I started on the coat and it started messing up.  Good thing you were not here to hear my screams!!!!!  I finally did get them sewn but it took me 3 hours to sew out three button holes!  Glad that is finished!!

 
Here is the collar all finished.  Can you see the difference that the proper pressing has made.  I have always been pretty good with the iron, but I do have to say with Kenneth Kings tips, this collar came out sensational.  I was nervous about this.  I have never sewn this type of collar, but it did turn out very professional.  I read in a magazine that top designers say they can always spot a homemade coat by the collar and lapel.  I figured this must be really hard.  It really wasn't as long as you took your time.  I don't think they will be able to tell by my jacket.  (I hope!)

I have also caught my Granddaughters bad cold.  I am a sniffling!!  I hope I still feel good enough to do some more sewing tomorrow!  Thanks for following!!  Cindy


Tuesday, October 7, 2014

Worked on my Tailored Coat Today!!

I worked on my coat this morning and have a few more seams finished!  Here is the start of the collar and you can see the hair canvas for tailoring.  You can actually see horse hair sticking out of it.

And here is the under collar.  It was cut on the bias and you sew diagonal lines on the canvas at a 45 degree angle and this allows the canvas to move and still be supported.  It is not tacked down on the outside edges.  It will just meet the seam and then it gets topstitched.

 
After making the collar you thread a needle with a double thread and take a stitch on the point of the collar.  You hold both ends of the thread and pull out the corners and shoot it with a puff of steam.  They turn our really nice.  I then formed the collar on my ham, shot it with steam and I am letting it set to form a really nice curve to fit the neck.
 
Next I started on the hidden pockets.  These really turned out amazing.  I was very happy with them.  It was a little tricky, I could not get it in my head how to lay out the pattern pieces.  After several tries I finally figured out how they should line up to make the seamline pocket.
 
Every seam gets pressed with a pressing cloth and a heavy clapper.  This is just about the best tool I own for ironing.  It really sets a seam by pushing the steam into the material.  I just shoot it with a puff of steam and put the clapper on it will a few seconds of pressure and it is perfect and very flat.

Here are my pockets being sewn into the seam.  The pockets are actually sewn into the seam line so it does not show until you actually put your hand into the pocket.

 
 
 
 
Well, its back to work tomorrow and now I won't get to sew again until the weekend.  I had to go in for a colonoscopy yesterday.  Yuck!!  So glad that is over with.  I got back home around 9:00am and I was still a little loopy, so I was afraid to sew and mess things up. I am glad I waited until today even though I didn't get as much down as I wanted.  It has been cold here this week and we actually saw snow last Saturday.  I sure could of used my new coat!!  I need to get this finished and I am getting very excited!!!  I sure hope it fits after all of this work!!