Monday, March 18, 2013

Another New Top With Lots Of Problems!

I worked on my red top and finished it this morning, Vogue V8816.  I am not exactly sure what kind of knit fabric this was, but it was the most difficult material to sew with.  My sewing machine, serger and coverstitch machine all hated this material.  It was a fight from start to finish.  Glad it is done.  I bought this material in the back of JoAnn's marked down section.  I personally think that if you watch you can get some better materials back there.  I think they must buy fabric from the end of bolts or something.  When I worked at JoAnn's there was always fabric back in the mark down section that I know was never on the shelf.

After I saw that I was having trouble sewing this material, I went to JoAnn Fabrics to get some stretch needles but they didn't have any.  I tried a ball point needle, but it did not like this at all.  I finally used an embroidery needle with my Teflon foot and that helped a lot.  I never realized that there is a big difference between a stretch needle and a ball point needle.  I will definitely be keeping the stretch needles on hand from now on.

Next,  after I started to sew my fabric I noticed that my fabric was growing.  It must be a type of "Slinky" knit fabric.

I knew I better stabilize the seam to help it keep its shape.  On the seam under the breast, I added some stabilizer to my stitches.  Then realized that this was going to bother me when I wore it, so I sewed it down with my serger.  I took pictures along the way, so you can see what I am talking about.

I tried to sew it closer to the bottom edge and then I could fold it over and catch it in my serger seam.
I don't like that you can see white even if it is on the inside of the garment, but after I pressed it down, it really didn't show.
 
I ended up having to take in the top 1 1/2 inches on each side seam.  Now this was the same pattern that I used to just make the little white top a couple of weeks ago.  This was how much this fabric was stretching.
 
Finally got that part finished and took it to my coverstitch machine to hem the top and ran into more problems.  I tore out the first seam because the hem was twisting and not laying properly.  I then decided to use the hand basting stitch on my sewing machine to prevent that from happening.
I love this stitch, it takes a stitch and then you raise the pressure foot and move your material and then it takes another stitch.  I use this all the time for basting.  You should check to see if you have this stitch.  It releases the feeddogs and you move the material.  I have talked to so many sewers who have this and never used it.  Anyway, this solved the problem of my fabric twisting with the coverstitch machine.  After one more try and removing the stitches and lots of adjusting this way and that way with the Cover Pro, it finally sewed out a nice hem and I got it finished this morning.  I am always fresher early in the morning and seem to be able to think through my problems better.  Well here is the top and I really like it.  Let me know what you think!!