Tuesday, August 21, 2012

New Top Finished With Many Alterations!!

I finally got my new top made.  If you have been following my blog, then you know I was having an issue with a full bust and my small shoulders.  I fixed this problem by adding a small dart and removing the excess material abouve the bust line.  Then, I took that dart and moved it to the proper placement along the bust line and now my top fits through that area very nice.  After finishing with this problem, I cut out my material to sew my new top.

When you try to sew from a muslin fitted bodice, they tell you to fit the bodice and then to transfer your markings to your paper pattern.  Well, I just used more muslin and fitted that and just marked my adjustments to the muslin.  I will just save that muslin as my pattern.  Here in this picture you can see that I cut out my material with my muslin.

Always when I sew my shoulder seams together I add a little piece of stabilizer to that section.  I feel like it is a very small area to carry all the weight of the top and that is one place that I do not want any stretch.   I ironed this seam to the front because I added a dart to the back shoulder seam.  This makes the bulk of the seam more even.

I always press my darts on my ham.  I found this wonderful old ham at an old second hand store.  I was so excited when I saw it for $1.00.  When I went to pay for it, three woman who worked there asked me what it was.  What a find it was for me!!

When I put my top on my duck tape dummy, it was really big in the back.  It was all one piece, so I decided to spilt it down the middle and add a zipper.  I also had to take in some of the excess at the waist by adding darts and I also added darts at the neckline.  The reason this was so large was because there was no zipper in the pattern.  You had to just pull the top on over your head.  After I put in the zipper, then I could take out some of that extra material, because it just makes me look heavy and with the added zipper, I will be able to get it on.   You can see my adjustments in the following picture.
Now that the back was finished I worked on the front.  The pattern had a large pleat down the center front of the top.  I didn't care for that after I made it either.  I thought it just made the top look homemade.  I played around with it, and decided to take that pleat and fold over the sides and sew it down.  Now it looked better.  Here is a picture.

I sewed down the little pleats I added to the front placket.  All that was left was using my Cover Pro machine, I cut bias strips and added the trim around the armholes and neckline, hemmed it and it was finished. 

These pictures just don't do this top justice.  The color is such a deep, deep red and I am happy with the way it turned out.
Author - Cynthia Dickerson

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

What a GORGEOUS blouse Cynthia! Thank you so much for sharing your trials in fitting & sewing it, it really encourages & inspires those of us who have similar fitting problems. Having a large bosom, but relatively normal, or even small shoulders & rib cage, really makes fitting tops extremely challenging, to say the least! The fabric you chose is also inspiring, it looks so upbeat and classy, at the same time- it almost looks like a shirt for New Year's or 4th of July, with the swirls on the deep red background, I can see why it would make you feel upbeat or good, anytime you wear it! Thank you for sharing, you really did a wonderful job! I absolutely agree about the pleats on the front! It actually looks like high end ready to wear, particularly because you went to the trouble of the special darts, extra pleats, adding a zipper, and those gorgeous bias tape armholes & neckline! I feel inspired to make one of my own when I get some time!
Becky in NC tumorfarmer